By Jayne Seagrave
The cruise has started, and I am writing at 7.00am as the dawn comes up, over the calm waters, watching a wooden ferry take huge multi-coloured trucks across the Ganges, while adjacent small wooden boats are fishing. We are anchored. It is misty. I am in pajamas as men (there are no female staff on the boat) wipe the dew from the deck, each one says: "Good morning ma'am, can I get you anything?" as I write on my I-pad. I am sitting on a sun lounger, no one else is up. The boat is all mine. The uniformed men working seem very content.
I get up at 6.00am everyday and watch the dawn come up as men busy around me putting cushions on the lounge chairs on deck, and wipe decks of the previous nights dew. After six days I do not have to ask for a black coffee in the morning as 'Shan' delivers it and asks me if I have slept well. I do not tip him. All gratuities included, as they are for the tuktuk drivers, the brick labourers we watch, and the women operating the looms to make the silk scarves we can buy. Since arriving on the boat, I have spent five dollars on a dress from a local market.
Away from Kolkata, and we cruise…then stop and a smaller boat takes us to shore. Yesterday, the smaller boat became stuck on the sandbank as it was getting dark, and we were returning. There were only fifteen of us, but we had to get to one end of the boat (weight redistribution) as "Sundip" rolled up his trousers and got into the water to push and manipulate us out, directed by eight of his colleagues. Apparently, it is not unheard of to get stuck on sandbanks for days. Sundip obtained his objective without much difficulty, giving me renewed confidence I would get back home. But if I did not, would that really be a problem?
We visited the French area yesterday - where the French battled the English. Here we were invited to a school, rode in numerous tuk-tuk's, with one ride lasting over 40 mins. My body was very, very sore afterwards as the roads are not great and you need to hang on, but the street scene fascinating. We saw funeral processions, visited churches and mosques, climbed towers, explored the streets, observed vendors, received invitations into local residents' homes, and stayed for coffee. I frequently removed my shoes, appreciating the convenience of the Velcro fastening. There are no other tourists - this part of India all ours, which I find amazing. When so many travellers are looking for something unique away from the crowds, I have found it with Pandaw. Other than my fellow travellers I have not seen another Western face for over nine days.
It is stunning there are so few boats on this huge river. Yes, hundreds of small fishing boats and barges taking the locals from one side of the water to the other, but we are the only cruise ship (in contrast, on the Mekong on my last Pandaw cruise, there were hundreds) and no freight.
Everyone washes themselves on the riverbanks. Everyone washes their children on the riverbanks. Everyone washes their clothes on the riverbanks. Everyone waves. Everyone wants to take our photograph. Each day we have excursions to an eclectic range of buildings – sari making shacks in villages with no paved roads, huge mosques, temples hundreds of years old, palaces Nawabs lived in, Raj Colonial buildings, markets, schools. We are the only visitors. With most of the world explored by tourists, I value the Ganges for its relative untouched state.
Upon our arrival in a village, children follow us, men with lined faces stare, and women in bright saris give welcoming smiles. No one asks for money. Some have a basic knowledge of English vocabulary. If transportation is required, we use tuk-tuks as there are no other transportation options.
The food on the boat is amazing, which is a hidden bonus as I did not book based on the food. Meals always sumptuous. Five chefs employed in the kitchen. Each day a choice of three main courses for lunch and dinner. Unlimited alcohol. Lovely cocktail hour with new cocktail, and a new appetizer each night.
I should be leaving this haven on the deck to shower and have breakfast, but the peace is wonderful and at this hour The Ganges and Pandaw vessel all mine, and my man has delivered me another coffee… "Feeling incredibly lucky to be here".
Jayne Seagrave is a BC Best selling Author. The ninth edition of her book Camping British Columbia, the Rockies and the Yukon was published by Heritage House in April 2023. Over 60,000 of her camping books have been sold. She also writes fiction, non-fiction, freelance articles and occasionally teaches writing and publishing courses. See: www.jayneseagrave.com